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“FOR EVERY HAPPY TEAR IN YOUR EYE MAKE ANOTHER ONE IN A CHILD'S”
CHARITY AUCTION on eBAY FOR BANDHANI TIE-DYE HAUTE COUTURE
 This magnificent piece of art, this beautiful gown, has been created to demonstrate the art of Bandhani tie-dye in support of the SickKids Foundation.
A stunning, lavishly cut skirt with a predominant flame hue is paired with an eye-catching corset top in matching colours.
Each piece of fabric has been assigned a position on the gown to represent what is about to be described.
The Indian tie-dye technique called Bandhani, also known as Bandhni is the oldest tie-dye tradition we know that is still practised, and still continues to have an important position in the world of fabric dyeing. Bandhani tie-dye dates back to antiquity and is an ancient and refined art. Think of the story of Joseph, the son of Jacob, in the Bible's Old Testament. He had a beautiful coat of many colours, the envy of his brothers. Could it have been tie-dyed?
Bandhani is also called 'Bandhej', and it derives its name from a Hindi word ‘Bandhan’ which means tying up. Indian Bandhani, the traditional form of tie and dye, began some 5,000 years ago in India, although it is very difficult to trace the origins to any particular area. Dyes date back to ancient times when primitive societies discovered that colours could be extracted from various plants, flowers, leaves, etc., which were able to be applied to fabrics. Turmeric and indigo were some of the herbs and plants that were used.
Ancient artists learned that some dyes dissolved in water and formed a blend, which was easily absorbed by the fabric. The art of Bandhani is a highly skilled, difficult, and time-consuming process. Bandhani can take as long as three days depending on the design, the colours, and the length of fabric used.
The technique behind this art is indicated by the name itself, which means tying and involves unbleached fabric, thread and dye. Fabrics used for Bandhani are muslin, handloom, silk, or voile. Mainly synthetic thread is used for tying the fabric as the thread does not absorb colour. This unbleached fabric is folded several times until reduced to a rectangular piece. It is then spread on a wooden table and the design is stamped with a wooden block using ‘Gheru’ or otherwise called Red oxide and mixed with water. At this point, a Bandhani craftsperson would have been growing his fingernails very long in order to tie the marked portions into tiny knots. These would be tied tightly with a thread in large and small knots at several points, thus producing a variety of patterns and symbols including dots, squares, waves and strips like Lehriya, Mothda, Edkali, and Shikari, depending on the manner in which the fabric was tied. This tied fabric would then be dyed in a light colour, generally yellow. Dyeing always starts with lighter shades and gradually intensifies until the darkest shades are attained. The area to be left yellow is then once again tied and later dyed in red or another darker colour, as different colours are introduced into the fabric. This process is repeated until the desired combination is achieved. Eventually, the fabric is dried and then washed with water to remove colour impurities. Next comes the hitching process, which involves removing the threads, as two persons from each end pull the fabric so that the threads pop off the fabric. It is then left in the sunlight so that the colour is embedded in the fabric.
These Bandhani tie-dyes are used in sarees, Punjabi dresses, shawls, skirts, tops, etc. Bandhani tie-dyes are sold still tied up to assure the buyer that they are authentic, and to give buyers the pleasure of untying the gorgeous fabric themselves. Bandhani forms the basic pattern on the fabric, which is often decorated further by various embroideries to make it dressy, glittery and opulent for ceremonial occasions.
Different forms of tie-dye can be found in countries around the world. During the Roaring ‘20s in the United States, decoration of curtains and throw-pillows were done with tie-dye. During the Great Depression, cotton flour sacks were tie-dyed and sewn into clothing, curtains and tablecloths. There was an understandable revival of tie-dyeing in the ‘60s when individuals made unique statements by tie-dying clothes with personalized combinations of colours and designs. During that time, tie-dye banners were used as backdrops for rock and roll concerts, and at home as room dividers and wall hangings.
In these modern times, Sikha & Tsufa are reclaiming this venerable tradition by creating pieces that are intended for special occasions and to honour the history, workmanship and beauty of these time-consuming fabrics by equivalent detail and design in the cutting and construction of this spectacular gown.
Designs, colours, and uses of tie-dye are endless and always unique.
Model: "Olympia", Tie Dye Photo by: Ian Campbell |
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